Weaving a basket is a fun and easy-to-learn craft!

Round reed is one of the easiest materials to use and these instructions will teach the reader how to make a basket that is approximately six to sevens inches in height and about a hand span in diameter.

Materials and Tools Needed

Round reed in two sizes, number four and number six reed is good to work with. Check in the nearest craft store or basket supply place to obtain your materials.

The rest of the supplies are found in your home: scissors or clippers to cut the reed; a bowl; needlenose pliers a few wooden clothespins and a good chunk of time to work on the basket.

Steps to Create Your Woven Reed Basket

First, a few facts about working with reeds, they are extremely brittle when dry because they are dry grass. But when you soak them in warm water they become wonderfully pliable and bend to almost any shape you desire. Then, follow these steps:

1. To begin, cut eight pieces of the larger size reed, each piece should measure approximatly fourteen inches in length then set them aside to soak in warm, not hot, water for a few minutes.
2. Working with the smaller sized reed, briefly run warm water over it before uncoiling it. It is best to suspend the tied end of the reed someplace high, like a nail or coat hook while working with it. If left loose it creates a unholy mess that strains anyones patience to try and untangle.
3. To loosen a strand of reed gently pull it loose from the bottom, following it up to where it joins the others. Coil it in a circle as you go, but not too tight as it will break easily.
4. Clip a wooden clothespin on it to hold the reed in place while it is being soaked. You will need several of these while weaving your basket.
5. Check the larger canes, they should be ready to work with now. If they are too pliable just let then dry a few minutes.Reed that is too pliable splits easily.
6. Place the smaller sized reed in the bowl of warm water to soak until it is ready to use. Place four pieces of the reed in your hand so they are horizontal and the other four vertical.
7. Either use a clothespin to hold them together or hold them with your hand, take the thinner reed out of the water, unclip the clothespin from it and wrap one end diagonally across the bottom of the vertical reeds.
8. Now is a good time to place another coil of narrow reed in the water to soak, do this when you take out one so you have one soaking when you need it.
9. Bring the narrow reed over the vertical strands and under the horizontal ones. Continue this until the larger reeds are secure
10. Separate the larger reeds into pairs, you should have 16 total. Cut one of them short so that you have fifteen, then treat the single reed as a double.
11. Weave the narrow reed over and under the pairs, keeping the tension even. It is important to keep the reed damp. Dry reed snaps easily! As you are working, you can shape the basket to be narrower or wider and shallow.
12. When it comes time to add another reed, try and make sure the end of the previous one is inside or hidden beside the larger reed. Overlap the ends so that they stay secure and continue to weave.
13. Watch for any spots that are weak, this will make your basket unstable.
14. Continue to weave using the over one under one pattern.
15. When you are almost three inches from the top of the basket stop and place it upside down in the water so the upper larger sized canes are wet. Then gently bend one and place it inside the basketweave, skipping the reed next to it.
16. Do the same all the way around. This gives you a nice decorative edge to your basket. At this time, make sure the bottom is level and the tension is even on the sides of the basket with no unsightly gaps. Set the basket aside to dry, then use or give away.

Make your own quilt top picnic basket.

You can take a small or medium sized basket and add a lid yourself, and then put in all the accompanying items that are necessary for a picnic lunch.

This is something that every home can use, it will make a wonderful gift for the outdoors person in your life, a great Christmas gift or a wedding present.

To begin with, you’re going to add the lid to the basket and then fill it with your items.

Materials You Will Need

• One basket, size and shape you want; the basket will need a flat edge with at least a quarter inch thickness. Willow or oak will be the sturdiest type
• A wood chest type basket one whose handle will move to the side to permit the to open
• 1/2 inch thick quilt batting
• 1/2 yard 1/2 yard print fabric of your choice or one scenic fabric panel two small brass hinges
• 1/4 inch thick piece of plywood, cut to fit your basket
• 4 metal cups
• 4 plastic plates
• Corkscrew
• Small metal salt and pepper shaker.
• Knife votive candles
• Packet of moist towelettes
• Inexpensive silverware set.

Tools and Equipment Needed

• Jig saw
• Staple gun and staples
• Small screwdrivers

Completed picnic basket set with quilt top.

1. Cover the basket lid by laying the quilt batting on the top of the plywood and cut to fit your basket.
2. Cover it with the fabric of your choice and wrap it around the board, so that about a 1/4 inch will be showing on the underside of the board, and tuck under the raw edges.
3. Staple, or use upholstery tacks to secure it about every two inches.
4. Attach the hinges to the inside of the basket top and to the inside of the basket itself, using the smaller screwdriver.
5. Inside, add your picnic supplies and voila.

There are so many on the market that are designed for massive achievements, but I personally recommend that if you are purchasing a machine for someone who is a first time user, or is not an overly experienced seamstress, that you purchase a moderately priced one, with a few good features such as button hole making, overcasting, and at least 20 stitches that will include both normal and stretch stitching.

Buying a new sewing machine will add pleasure and ease of use to your sewing projects.

The Singer Quantum sewing machine features about twelve stitches, a great price tag at about 150 USD and some super inclusions such as the set of 8 presser feet and the bobbins and needles.

• 4-step buttonholer
• Top drop-in bobbin with see-thru cover
• Drop feed
• Uses class 15 bobbins
• Adjustable Pressure
• Automatic Tension
• Built-in Accessory Storage
• Carry Handle
• Free-Arm
• Light
• Snap-on Presser Feet

The Simplicity SW240 Quilter offers a middle road sewing machine, which features about twelve stitches, five or six presser feet and can be purchased at a retail of about 200USD from Walmart Company The Simplicity Machine offers you:

• 8 presser feet
• five year warranty
• machine screwdriver
• Bobbins
• Dust cover
• brushes

The Brother XL-3500T Free Arm Sewing Machine, with a current retail price of about $109.99 is actually among the best of the sewing machines I’ve seen in this price range. The value for your dollar is literally amazing.

It features a huge range of things that make it easy, fast and fun to create everything from garments to quilts to crafts. You get 35 built-in stitches that will permit you to do about 70 stitch functions, including decorative, heirloom and quilting with your machine.

• Automatic 4-step button holer with stitch balance control
• Automatic needle threader
• Drop-in bobbin with view of thread supply
• Free-arm/flatbed convertible sewing surface
• Built-in decorative, utility and stretch stitches provide a professional finish on a variety of fabrics
• Automatic bobbin winding system
• Quilting features included
• Stitch width and length control
• Variable needle position
• Twin needle for decorative stitching
• Dial thread tension control
• Quick-change presser feet
• Electronic speed control
• Built-in thread cutter
• Built-in light illuminates the sewing area
• Safety power and light switch
• Lightweight (11 lbs) with built-in handle for portability
• Instructions in English and Spanish
• Manufacturer’s Warranty: 25 Years mechanical, 2 years electrical, 90 days labor on defects in materials and workmanship.

When purchasing a sewing machine as a gift of for yourself, make sure that you test the machine while you are in the store. Most upscale department stores will permit you to test run the machine while you are in the store, prior to its purchase.

Make sure that the stitches are straight, that it seams well and that the speciality stitching is well locked as well as that the button hole features are not too complex and that you will have no real problems operating the machine.

The strong man from the comic strips who told us that eating our spinach was going to make us strong to the finish.

Kids were told that the iron in the spinach would make them stronger and as a result, actually ate it.

Popeye was actually introduced in a comic strip called Thimble Theater in a time when no one cared about the antioxidants in spinach.

The comic strip itself ended in about 1992, but the collectibles that it engendered have just begun to really take off in popularity and in price.

Today they bring high prices and great retail rewards. Popeye figures can be worth 500 to 1000 USD and tin toys, lithographed, are selling from 1000 to a whopping 28000 for a Popeye rowboat.

A cast iron doorstop that featured Popeye recently sold for about 6000 on auction.

So although the comic strips and cartoons may be over with, its apparent that Popeye mania is just beginning.

Check your attic and see what you’ve got lying around in the Popeye category. It is certainly true, that Popeye is making a “strong finish”

Making sure that you have all that you need to be comfortable in any kind of summer weather, as well as the food stuffs and the means to cook them is essential to assuring that everyone has a great time.

Camping means roughing it a bit, but in todays high tech society, the level that you do rough it is entirely up to you.

Televisions that operate on batteries and have remarkable antennas are available as well as laptop computers that function from your cell phone. You can take it all, or very little of the civilized world with you when you head out to the great outdoors.

If you aren’t familiar with camping, there are a few basic things you’re going to need, particularly if the trip is to a campground that relies on tents, camp stoves and sleeping bags to accommodate the guests and does not supply alternative housing.

Basic items you will need to set up an adequate outdoors experience:

• A tent, or some means of shelter. This can be as little as a small two man tent, or as large and spacious as a tent that can be three or four rooms and tall enough to stand in, or it can be nothing more, if you’re expecting fair hot weather and don’t mind braving a few bugs, than a tarp over poles that will hold the dew off your group.
• Sleeping bags, or blankets. The weather of course is going to determine the extent that you want to be covered up. There are some lightweight bags available, that will prevent unwelcome night time visitors. Lighter blankets or covers may be enough if you have a tent with a floor that goes part way up the sides. And don’t forget a pillow.
• Camp stove or gas grill (or another means of cooking). A grill is adequate, if you take some kind of pan with you, to hold things that don’t sit on the grill well such as eggs. I personally take both. I love the taste of grilled food, but nothing beats a small camp stove to make the morning coffee and get a fast breakfast..
• Cooler for perishable foods sleeping clothing.
• Lanterns and flashlights
• Insect repellent. This is one of those things you don’t want to leave at home. Nothing ruins a fun outdoor vacation faster than fifty mosquito bites in the great north woods. If you don’t like using toxic substances, there are some incredible ones you can make yourself. They aren’t as waterproof, and not as long lasting but they are natural and will work well to repel the insects. Going home with a great case of West Nile probably isn’t on your list of things to do.

Decide in the beginning how much you can afford to spend and then begin to check out tents in that price range.
Spending everything you have to spend on it isn’t the general idea, but spend what you need to, in order to accomplish your goals for the shelter.

Bear in mind a few simple rules when purchasing.
If you will usually be backpacking into your camp site, then the size and weight are going to make a huge difference to you.
It might be smarter to purchase two smaller tents as opposed to one three roomer that weighs 50 or 60 pounds to carry.
The capacity of a tent is based on the same figures as a room. Square feet and how many normal sleeping bags it will hold.

A few places to begin searching for your idea camping shelter are Cabelas.com and Coleman.

You’re going to find of course, that even if only two people will be camping, that you’ll but a lot more comfortable if you have a four person tent in order to store some of your gear, so I personally recommend that you search for a tent that will house at least two more people than will actually be camping.

If the weight of the tent isn’t an issue, then the multiple room tents are awesome for adding a bit of privacy (note I did say a BIT) so the kids have their own space and you do too.

A few of the features you might want to look for are:

Aluminum poles, which are more durable

Rain Flies, a sort of umbrella that will help the tent stay dry in the event of a storm.

Double stitching and folded under seams. (if you can see holes from the stitching, the tent is going to leak far more than normal.

A one piece floor that is partway up the sides will discourage water seepage and unwelcome visitors.

Good sturdy guy lines.

Tiny window mesh, which will keep out the smaller noseeum type bugs that are so annoying.

When you are comparing tents, make sure that you compare apples to apples. Don’t compare a three room tent to a one room, or a winter tent to a summer weight one.

A few comparisons on three room tents built for summer use

17´ x 9´ Weathermaster® 3-Room Tent
[17´ x 9´ Weathermaster® 3-Room Tent]

Colemans Model No. 9232G179

Exclusive WeatherTec™ System Keeps you dry — Guaranteed
• 17 x 9 feet, 3 rooms, sleeps 6-8
• 76″ of vertical space at center
• Hanging dividers to separate rooms
• Fitted fly for an extra layer of protection from the elements
• Easy to follow set up instructions are sewn into the carry bag
• Separate storage bags for tent poles and stakes
• Cool-Air™ for access to outside
• Poles: 19mm steel shock-corded
Retail price is about 250 USD from the Coleman site

Cabela’s three room, Deluxe Backwoods Cabin is truly a home away from home. The walls and roof are constructed of heavy-duty nylon taffeta to ensure they’ll stand up to frequent use. Two detachable room dividers give you the versatility to separate the cabin into three rooms or open it up for use as one large room.
Retails for about 289.99 at Cabelas.com

To hike into some situations you are going to need at least a decent pair, because they will offer the confidence to head into situations where carrying a heavy pack is not an easy task and a slip of the foot isn’t something you can afford.

Purchasing the right pair of boots doesn’t have to cost the earth, and they can last for as long as five years, given the right care and consideration.

Knowing what you’re looking for and a bit about how boots are put together is going to help you a great deal in the purchase of a decent pair of boots.

Whole grain cowhide is the outer aspect of the cow. It is stiff, nearly waterproof and leather, and is sometimes made into boots turned inside out, so that the smoother aspect of it is inside. This prevents scratching of that smooth outer layer.

The upper aspect of your boot should be nearly seamless, so that there are no sewed areas to be prone to leakage.

The gusset, which is the piece of flexing leather that is sewed to the tongue and upper part of the shoe, and will keep out stones and prevent water from leaking.

The upper part of the boot should have as few seams as possible. A one-piece upper is more water resistant.
Boots should also have a back stay, which is a strip of leather that will be sewed over top of the back seam. This strip should be very narrow, because if it is torn the boot is effectively ruined in that replacing those strips is nearly impossible to accomplish.

The stitching that connects the sole, or the upper aspect of the sole is called the welt. Norwegian welts are stitched double and are very very thick material and extremely strong.

Search for a boot that has a wide rubber strip to protect the stitchery, that holds the shoe to the sole.
Many of the lesser boots will not have this and its something you absolutely cannot hike without.

Your sold should be made up of three parts, a padded aspect which is called a foot-bed, that is just below the foot, an insole, and a outer sole, or out sole.

Incredible advances in technology have made boot design grow and advance as well in the past few years. There are now wrap around soles on new boots, and gore tex liners that permit breathing for your feet as well as wicking the moisture away from the skin, but which tend to stay dry.

While they are not inexpensive, they are well worth what you pay, and will last many years if cared for properly.

Don’t buy the first pair of boots you come to. Spend some real time comparing the many types of boots available and find one that is a good value for the price you will pay.

If you are in a large open area, particularly in winter, the snow and wind are not blocked and your tent will catch the rain or ice as well.

Try to choose a site for your tent that is sheltered by trees if possible, or, hanging tarps can help to block out a great deal of wind from your tent.

Avoid thick vegetation and do your setup on snow if you can so that your campsite will virtually disappear when spring thaw hits.

When you begin your tent setup, pack the snow down hard beneath the tent. We found this out the hard way. If you don’t the body heat will melt the snow, harden it into ice and sleeping will be very uncomfortable because you won’t be able to even roll over for a lump in the snow.

When the days or nights are windy, and your tent is exposed, dig a 1 or 2 foot deep hold in the snow to set up your tent in. That will help the wind to be diverted away from your tent and make it easier to get in and out of your tent.

When staking the tent, attach about a foot of cord to each one of the points on the tent that you are going to stake.
and you can use logs or tree branches for tent anchors on the chance that the ground is too solid for a tent stake.
Another thing to preplan for is that normal tent stakes, particularly the plastic variety, aren’t going to work well for you in snow or hard ground.

Instead you will want to take snow flukes or skewers with you to help hold your tent when its winter time.

Eating and Drinking

During the day, instead of stopping for longer meals, that will require more body heat and energy to digest, snake on food all day at short intervals, keeping your carbohydrate levels higher.

Carry hot water or soup with you, so that you have something to warm you if the need arises.

You are absolutely going to need a water bottle on your belt, and carrying a few smaller snacks there is a good idea too.
A very good idea will be a heated or insulated coffee cup to keep your hot drinks hotter for far longer. Try to steer clear of coffee during the evening and late night hours, but do bring along plenty of hot drinks. Don’t however drink a lot of alcohol as this will in fact prevent your body from keeping itself warm by virtue of its actions on the venous flow.

Take a few snacks to bed with you and snack on them prior to sleeping so that your body will have the energy it needs to produce the heat you will need during the night. Also before you go to bed, make sure to put on a stocking cap or a hat of some type and close up your mummy bag so that only the face is exposed, to help your body hold heat.

Make sure that you have a lot of carbs in your diet while winter camping so that the body is well fueled. You will find that one kettle dinners are the easiest to deal with and they tend to be hearty mixtures.

Water is a necessity on trips such as this, and even though you won’t always feel thirsty, drink a lot. Dry air will dehydrate the body fairly rapidly.

To prevent the bottles from freezing put them in a sock or hat or by taping foam around them. if you mix it with something such as lemonade or juice it will also take longer to freeze. Your water filters are probably not going to work well in the low temps so use chemical water treatments instead and bear in mind they will take longer to work the colder the water and air are, so give them ample time to work prior to using the water.

Water filters are not suited to below freezing weather. Water left in the filter matrix can freeze and split the internal seals, destroying the effectiveness of the filter.

If you need to melt snow, use coffee filters to strain it, so that you need not drink those bits of leaves and so on. When the temperature dips below freezing, store your water bottles in your tent upside down. This way if they do freeze, the ice will form at the bottom and not in the top opening, preventing the water from coming through.

If your water bottle doesn’t come with cap loops, tie strings or cord around the mouth of the bottle, below the cap to make them easier to carry and keep close.

Particularly if there is snow in the forecast, remember that your travel times are going to be longer, and the daytime is going to be shorter, while certain aspects of the daytime are going to take longer so plan accordingly. Adjust your travel times so that you arrive at your destination with enough time to lay a fire and set up the tents before dark. Its not much fun to try to build a fire, and set up camp when its several hours past time to be inside the tents.

You can build a three sided shelter, and use it quite well in the wintertime by using lightweight tarps to prevent wind intrusion, which are a great deal lighter to carry than the average winter tent. They aren’t ideal of course but will fill the bill til you get some daylight if necessary.

When you travel anywhere in wintertime that is going to involve any kind of walking, or outside activities, the smart person is going to dress in layers, so that you can use your clothing to adjust your comfort and moisture level. Make sure that you have at least three layers, one against your skin, one which insulates, such as polar tech, and another outer one that will repel wind and water, and ideally wick it away from the body.

Cotton is not idea material in wintertime for two reasons. It is not an good insulator, becomes wet very easily and takes an excessive amount of time to dry. Wool is a much better choice, and barring that, synthetics are far better choices.

Wet feet are NO FUN!! Make sure that your boots or hikers have a waterproof outer layer. Fabric boots are not a good choice, and leather will absorb water and take a long time to dry well. The outer layer in a fabric boot, even one with a good lining, is going to wet and freeze.

Don’t forget a hat. Much of the heat that is lost from your body will be lost from extremities such as head, feet and hands.. and most of that will be lost through the head.. protect it by wearing a wool ski cap, a balaclava,ski mask or a double fleece hat.
Don’t leave your neck open to the wind and absolutely bring gloves and try to make sure that you have a second pair to have in reserve as well as several pairs of extra socks. Wet hands and feet will lead to frostbite, particularly in very cold conditions..

A good tip to remember when you are camping in cold areas or in winter time is to warm up your clothing , socks and so on by pulling them into your sleeping bag with you to warm them prior to getting up from your sleeping bag. You can do the same thing with your boots, by taking the insoles, or the soft inner liner out and warming it as well before you put on your boots.

Before you begin to walk take away part of your insulating layer of clothing so that overheating and sweating isn’t an issue. Standing doesn’t make the heat that hiking will and you will create moisture in your clothing as you walk that you don’t want.

Keep your hiking bag or backpack well organized. Know where all the extra things are and how to get to them easily. This will prevent having to stop and grapple around with your backpack in the event you do need to change out of some wet clothing.

Take along one or two of the hand warmers or chemical heat packs that can be used to warm your extremities in case of need. These little things have been a lifesaver on more than one occasion.

We lived for most of our lives in the foothills and mountains of Pennsylvania, where we camped nearly weekly as children and teens. Marriage didn’t change a great deal, however our passion was for winter camping and we chose husbands who don’t care for the snow and ice and the challenge it represents, so they don’t join us in the yearly trek into winter survival.

In point of fact, they use the time when we’re gone to enjoy some bachelor time, watching hunting shows, having a beer and eating beans and hot dogs, a meal we don’t relish overly.

Our first foray into cold weather camping was high up in the mountains on a trip to New Mexico, where the Sandias presented a challenge all their own. Unaccustomed to the heat of the day, and the vast difference between the night time temperatures, we were ill prepared for the trip, and learned a great deal from it.

Having seen one too many old westerns, we took our thin sleeping bags, rolled them up and used them as pillows for our heads, to find ourselves half frozen at about 40 degrees when three AM rolled around.

From experiences like this comes wisdom and we feel ourselves qualified to write on winter camping with a bit more knowledge of what can happen if you aren’t prepared than the average person may have.

When you choose to take on winter camping, a few rules apply that don’t necessarily apply to the average mid summer camping trip.

You are going to be challenged by the elements, rain, snow or cold air are issues.

You are going to need to compensate for those elements and make arrangements in advance for times when weather changes rapidly and can create real issues.

The first thing you’re absolutely going to need is a tent rated for cold weather. One that we recommend is the military tent that you can purchase at Eureka military surplus supply.

This one is light weight, sets up in a heart beat.. well about five minutes for the two of us, and weighs just about nothing.. but will withstand some pretty severe winds and snow.

Its rated for minus 25 degrees Fahrenheit and will repel rain, even when its driven by winds up to about 15-20 miles per hour.
Trust me when I say that when the temperature is running 30 to 15 Fahrenheit, you want a tent that’s going to handle high winds and rain.. This one works even in the summer if you’re caught in a rainstorm, and carrying it isn’t an issue. Its compact of course and isn’t really a large gazebo like luxury tent, but that’s not necessarily what you want when the temps are dipping low. Too large a tent is going to take too much to heat, so leave your four room bit of modern technology at home when you are winter camping.

This one will measure just about 50 inches tall and has just about 60-65 square feet of floor room.

You’re also going to need some superior sleeping bags, which can be purchased really at any upscale outfitters, but our choice for those was Cabela’s, one of the foremost outfitters of hobby gear in the world.

Located in Nebraska, just a stones throw from us, we found a 3-D mummy bag with an excellent price tag of about 100.00 USD and a temperature rating of minus 15 F.

The sleeping bag is built with more sidewall panels that gives it its 3-D design which offers you a lot more room inside the bag.. It also gives you the best in insulation without a lot of weight.

The insulation is Quallo® with Thermolite® Micro as a double insulator in the areas where most heat will be lost to you… the head, top of the back and the feet..

These two pieces of gear are absolutely necessary and will assure your warmth inside the tent.. Trekking to the campsite as well as how to set and what plans to make in advance will be tackled in the next winter camping article.. Beginning Basics.

I can order parts and components and build them exactly as I want them, each clock and lamp will match or coordinate with my style of decorating, and there is a certain satisfaction in knowing that I did it myself.

The online store that I work with is called Klockit and also furnishes plans, all of the components and hardware for clocks, lamps as well as some unique country furniture kits and plants.

Among the things I’ve built using their plans are clocks, buckboard style benches, and music boxes.

For the DIY, or handyperson in your life, who likes working with their hands, one of these kits, or the components to make their own clock might be the perfect idea for a Christmas gift that will keep them occupied over the winter and give them something more to appreciate you for.

When you purchase a kit for a Christmas gift, it gives your hobby building something new and interesting to try, and it is something more than just a Christmas gift or a birthday gift, but an indulgence in what they love to do, that leaves them something useful when they’ve completed it.

One of the things I ordered and personally recommend as relatively easy to complete is the buckboard bench kit, that you see above. that turns out well even if you are new to woodworking and is fun to build and decorate.
Its the perfect fit to country decorating, making an interesting piece of furniture that will work well in nearly any country decorated room.

The second kit I completed was the Galileo wall clock and barometer, which fits equally well with a rustic country decor that is my dining room style.
A barometer is nearly a necessity in Nebraska, but nothing says it can’t be stylish and elegant, and fit well into its surroundings, as this one certainly does.

It was fun to build, didn’t take a lot of time, or even a high cost for the kit, and if it is purchased by component and the plans for the wood cuts, that takes the cost even lower, and would delight the avid woodworker.

Some of the lovliest clocks I’ve build were built with the wood fungus that you find growing on the trees in the northeast and midwest, hollowed out and then woodburned and painted scenes placed on them from the forests..

They are fitted with the components such as the very small clock insets about one inch in diameter, purchased from the Klockit Company, that you view below and I’ve sold them for as much as fifty dollars for the smaller ones, with an outlay of about 2 hours and 12 dollars total, so the profit is a reasonable one if you’d like to sell them as opposed to making them for your own use. There are after all, only so many places to put a clock on the wall.

If you are looking for the perfect Christmas gift for a do it yourselfer, or even, just a gift for yourself, pay a visit to Klockit and check out all of the interesting things they have to do, including benches, music boxes and even bass wood for those of you who enjoy woodburning.
Happy Building.

Quilts such as these were traditionally done to be that showcase of talent, and being so study and durable, many which are very old have survived in nearly pristine condition.

Thse are considered quilted masterpieces and were brought out only on special occasions.

The Welsh quilt that you see here is made from what is called sateen.

Rich full darker colors were favorites of the Welsh for use in their wedding quilts and this one, with its heart shaped motif on the edging was most likely a wedding quilt.

I made my own replica of this quilt, omitting the hearts and opting instead for a celtic knot quilting pattern and putting it on a deep gold sateen fabric.

I’ve included the celtic knot motif so that you can try it yourself.

Joining the celtic knot at the corner will make an incredible quilt or lap quilt, or one motif alone can be used to make a quilted pillow.

A large bed quilt took five yards of fabric of deep russet for the one side and five yard of dark gold fabric for the other.

This quilt is reversible.

To make your quilt, you will need:

10 yards of cloth

72 x 85 inchers of batting

template which is included.

thinble

hand quilting needles

quilting thread.

Assemble the front pieces, using one peice that is 30 x 85 and one 15 inches x 85 inches so that the quilt will measure a finished 45 x 85 inches.

assemble the back in the same fashion

Press the top fabric, lay it onto a flat surface such as a large table, and mark guidelines, dividing it into four quarters.

do this either by basting or by light pencil dots as it should not be visible on the finished product.

Measuring your template and dividing evenly, make sure that the knot is evenly spaced on both sides and bottom, so that if there will be a fifteen inch edge on the sides there should also be one on top and bottom.

Adjust your placements as necessary to make sure that you achieve that.

WHat I personally did with the celtic knot, was to mark my quarters, and then begin at that point.

I placed four celtic knots in the center touching at the corner, and moved them out from the center, rather than attempting to space from the edges. You can see from the image here how it was done.

Quilting:

Assemble the three layers, backing, batting and marked tops.

Quilt all of your marked lines, using a small rocking type stitch.

When you have finished quilting, trim the backing to within a scant inch of the outer quilted line.

Trim the top and backing fabrics so that they are about 1/2 inch from the batting

Turn the top fabric over the edge of the batting and turn under the edge of the backing fabric to meet it.

Top stitch the front and back neatly together, and try to stay as close as you can to the folded edge.

The first really useful time pieces are those which were made about the sixteenth century and they did not become pieces of art, or ornaments for quite some time later.

Two markets then formed from just the one. Clocks and watches began to be considered either jewelry or furniture.

Grandfather clocks for instance, which are known more formally as “longcase” clocks in Great Britain, or Tallcase clocks in America, began to be much more popular, and are now collected avidly.

They are decorated abundantly and made of elegant and expensive woods, bronzes and laquer finishes.

There are mantel clocks, carriage clocks, wall clocks, bracket clocks and myriad collectible time pieces. Other shapes can be housed inside bronze, and boast diamonds, silver or gold as well as many other precious stones and metals. Most of these are beautiful enough to be appreciated as very valuable decorative art, but their movements are not special, merely functional.

The collector of a serious time piece is looking not just for good looks but for something special inside the case, the movement, to be an ingenious arrangement of gears and jewels and rods that keep time, after a hundred years, down to the split second.

In a long forgotten era, when men of science had no such things as space shuttles and missiles on which to work, they worked instead on clocks, keeping their significant skills sharpened by creating more and more sophisticated time pieces, that had more and more fine gears, fitted to keep track of moon phases, time, date and day, as well as seconds.

In many cases these men lost eyesight in the service of the clock making position, and made a name for themselves in history making the most creative and ingenious time pieces that are on the market still today.

Grandfather clocks, mantel clocks, pocket watches are noted collectibles today, and while you may find a bargain on some, for others such as the ones featured here, whose prices are 9000.00 USD and 12,500 USD respectively, you can expect to pay many thousands of dollars for what was once a miracle of technology and remains a durable and beautiful piece of history.

To visit some truly amazing miracles of the clock makers era, pay a visit to the Antique Traders and see if you aren’t in awe of the craftsmanship by the time you leave the pages there.

Looking for something special and can’t find it? Check the site index, a complete listing of all of our articles and projects.

Furniture that is antique has become very popular, and the decorating styles that are popular today are making it more so, because the demand for it is higher.

The chair that would have sold for just a pittance a few years ago, today, even with that broken seat, will command a much higher price.

Antique furniture will nearly always go up in its value because of two major factors, those being that it is nearly always far more solid in construction, most of it being made of solid wood, and that it has a superior method of craftsmanship than most furniture on the market today.

Style and real character are what people are searching for in their furniture and it is far more easily found when you purchase those pieces which were made in an earlier time.

Antique furniture is in great demand and it is because of the superior styles that are available and the amazing crafting skill that went into the making.

There are basically four types of antique furniture, or categories, among them, Far Eastern, European, English, and American.

The kind of wood that a piece is constructed from makes a significant difference in the value of the piece.
If the furniture has its own hardware, that is original to the piece, they will be worth a great deal more than those which have been redone or refurbished due to breakage.

Pieces constructed of mahogany, oak or walnut, or the older knotty pines will be the most in demand and will also be the pieces that will be the most costly.

As mentioned, antique furniture that is not in the best shape or has scratches on it, should never be redone to keep the value of the piece.

Don’t strip or refurbish the piece, and if it is wobbly, simply add a drop of glue to sturdy it up a bit.
To find those which are a little wobbly probably means they are genuinely old and to refinish one will significantly lower its value.

To check furniture at a home sale or auction, checkout the entire piece. At times the back panels have been redone, or they have been refinished. These pieces don’t go for top dollar.

Once you’ve found that perfect piece of furniture, care for your antiques with great consideration of their value.
Using the correct polish is important. Beeswax is an excellent polish for it, rather than the lemon oil polishes, which have a tendency to dry the wood excessively and will assuredly lower the value of the piece.

If you can see a film on the furniture you are about to purchase, you can tell that the dealer has used lemon oil or pledge-like products. Don’t buy them.

You will find antique furniture just about anywhere you can find furniture of any kind. Attics often yield some treasure troves of old family furniture and garage sales, church sales, pawn shops and in many cases flea markets are idea for finding small pieces that you are looking for.

Some of the very best pieces will be found at the estate sales of older couples, because they usually will have had the piece most of its existence and it will usually be in good shape.

While you are still learning about antiques, take some time each day to contribute to your education using online or offline resources.

Try to stick with just one kind of furniture until you are familiar with them all and don’t purchase a piece on impulse. Go and research if first so you know what you are getting when you bid on it, or purchase it.

Having their own replicas of those things that we use on a daily basis, to them, is a great source of enjoyment, as well as teaching them basic cleanliness, basic safety and many other handy lessons while they are pretending.

Cooking is one of the things that little boys and girls both love to play and this Christmas season, you can delight them with a play kitchen designed just in their size with their own sized appliances.

Toy kitchens range in price from about 60.00 dollars up to about 199 dollars, with the most expensive being of course, among those with the most features in a children’s toy.

The state of the art in children’s play kitchens this holiday season is KidKraft’s new Grill and Bake Kitchen completely packed with fun and excitement as they cook and bake their way through the weekend hours.
There are two sides that will permit your children to play in groups rather than alone, and having friends for dinner, even an imaginary one is always fun.

There are plenty of fun treats to be baked. There are plenty of treats to be made whether grilling on the patio side or baking in the cozy kitchen. This charming and clever environment is full of unique details to delight your child at a price that is really not that bad.

As with any other toy available for your child this holiday season, check well for rounded corners rather than sharp ones, make certain that the rating is for a child whose age is compatible with your child’s and make certain that this type and make of toy has not been under any recalls.

My answer to that would be, why are you twisting it in that fashion in any case? Is there a point to SEEING if you can deliberately break it and then whining about the fact that it hasn’t the power to stand up to a grown persons muscle?
Another report says the the LCD screens are not air tight and will in fact get dust inside them.

In point of fact that is indeed true, and they do get dust in the cases, which can in fact be fixed quite easily without taking them to a repair center or sending it back for a lengthy wait while they are disassembled.

It can be fixed by removing it and wiping it clear of dust or other debris carefully.
To do that you will need to disassemble the unit.

To begin to disassemble it there will be a need to remove the seven screws from the case on the back of the psp.
Turn over the psp and remove the battery. You will see a ‘warranty void if removed’ sticker placed there.

Mental note, the warranty doesn’t cover dust in the screen, so if you want it out, you have little choice but to remove it yourself; and voiding warranties is what electronics freaks and computer geeks do. Buy yourself a Think Geek tee shirt that says “I void warranties” gather your Snap-on screwdrivers and get moving.

Always place the screws in a zip lock baggie or on a magnet to hold them while you are working. Otherwise when it comes time to put it back together guess what you’re going to be searching for.

You will see that there are three types of screws that need removal. When you’ve accomplished this the face plate will come off of the unit, if you pull up on it GENTLY.
When you have accomplished that, slide the small screwdriver under the lip that is located on the left aspect of the button bar and slide it up so that the bar is disconnected from the housing. Be very careful not to lose the contact (which is made of rubber) for the thumb.

Unplug the button bars flex cable next by lifting that tab up toward you and sliding that cable out. Be extremely careful as these are very weak in nature and will break easily if you twist and turn them.

This flex connector requires extra care, as if you force it into a certain position you would cause more problems than youi’ve fixed.

The left side of the LCD screen has a metal bracket that holds the LCD in place.

You will need to unhook that side of the LCD by sliding your flat head screwdriver between the LCD housing and the mounting bracket for the LCD.

Once you have accomplished this task, very slowly pop the tabs and the LCD screen will come out. Pull out the other side equally slowly so that you don’t damage it and then turn the LCD at a ninety degree angle so you can access that connector cable. Lifting the clamps on the connectors, you will see brown clips, which are the only aspect that will lift up.

Don’t wipe the LCD until you have something reasonable to wipe it with.. Before you even try it, try using canned air to see if you can dislodge any loose dirt or dust. The LCD screen is a very delicate aspect of the PSP and will in fact scratch incredibly easily.

The micro fiber rags aren’t really a good bet for dusting this off as it will leave as much lint as it takes away dust. Probably the best bet to clean it is one of the screen cleaning cloths that can be purchased for the screen of your lcd monitor, or failing that, a very soft paper towel such as those used for cleaning glasses.

Rather than wiping it, dust gently across it, so that whatever dust or debris is on the screen doesn’t scratch the actual screen.

To the pixel death issue, we truly have no good repair that can be effected at home by the user, however, there are multiple good repair services out there who seem to be making some inroads into fixing those things which are reported PSP issues.Web sites are springing up by the literal hundreds which are offering to repair the PSP for nominal prices such as thirty dollars to fix your UMD issues or a bit more to look into all three.

That being said, the UMD Door repair can be effected at home, however its not quite as easy as it might sound yet it can be done. (Bear in mind that if you do repair your own PSP you are probably effectively defaulting on the warranty.)

Open the system using the two screws holding the UMD door in place. You’re going to need a precision Phillips head, a flat head screwdriver and a umd door.

Take out the button bar by sliding a tip of the screwdriver under the left side of it and slide the screwdriver up til it is disconnected. Unplug the flex cable that leads to the button bars.

Take out the LCD or prop it up gently to prevent scratching it. Start by removing the pink star screws, and very gently pry the brace out toward you. When the tabs are loose from the pad, press the latch to open the umd door. Gently wiggle it free of the hole on the backside.

Again with the flathead screwdriver and VERY EASILY, pry the hinge to the side and out. If you force it you will probably break it so do be gentle with it.

Seat your UMD door Properly. Slide the left corner into place, and make sure that the metal housing is connected to the inner door. Press the clip on the right side in and make sure that everything is opening and closing properly before you reassemble your psp.